Sunday, December 14, 2014

Kitchen Update December 14

This week we kept working on parts of the kitchen project which we had already started, but not finished, so we don't have much to show off.

We started the week with a few more rounds of wood putty and sanding as we noticed imperfections. We are using tongue and groove flooring for our counter top, and where the sink cutout is the grooves could all be seen. We had to fill them in, and not just for the look. We don't want water getting up under the counter top. We glued some little skinny sticks in the holes and then filled in the gaps with wood putty and sanded again.


Then the waterlox treatment started. Waterlox needs oxygen to dry and is kind of stinky so we left our sliding door and kitchen open and turned on some fans. 


We used our shower rod to hang up a tarp across the kitchen entry way which kept the rest of the house warm enough, and the weather has been cooperating this week, so that was nice.



We got two coats of waterlox on the bottoms of the counter tops, and three coats on the top. We're doing at least 4 on the tops, but the bottoms are only getting 2 coats, so that meant we were ready to install them.

Oooh! Shiny!


The counter tops aren't perfectly flat (and neither are the tops of the cupboards) so I bought a roll of 1/4 inch thick cork and laid a sheet of it down for the counter tops to rest on. The cork has a little give and cushions  the counter top so it doesn't rock and gave it something soft to snug into when I fastened it down.

You can see it under the counter top here. 


To install we used the method from This Old House. Wood counter tops expand perpendicular to the grain, and a counter top can grown and shrink up to 1/4 inch. So if you cinch it down tight something is going to crack. Probably the counter top, but maybe the cupboards themselves.

So what you do is screw the back of the counter down tight. This will force the expansion to all happen away from the wall. For the middle and front fasteners you drill a 1/2 diameter hole through the supports.



Then you use a screw and a fender washer to keep the counter top from raising up, but the 1/2 inch hole allows it to shift around as the wood expands. Here's a shot from the bottom.



You need to drill pilot holes before putting screws into hard woods like Maple or it'll crack. I couldn't get the pilot holes lined up correctly with my 1/2 inch holes. The drill didn't fit under the counter top because of the bottom shelves and other support members, so after getting grumpy about it (sorry, Caroline) I just went and bought a small right angle adapter for the drill.


There was a bigger chucked adapter, but I went with the skinny one to make sure I could get in where I needed to. It takes 1/4 inch hex bits, and luckily I have a set of hex shank drill bits. It worked like a charm. Things work so much better when you have the right tools.

I also fixed up the back wall of the area under the sink. I wasn't going to bother with it since it's the area under the sink, but Caroline said I'd be sorry if I didn't. I didn't take down the old drywall, I just put up a new layer over it and mudded. It'll need sanding and one more coat to be completely smooth, then we can paint under here.




What's Left?

People keep asking what's left, so here's hopefully the complete list:


  • Build cupboard faces and paint the new cupboards
The small cupboard is new and the tall one got expanded. They both need new faces and doors and need to be painted. 



  • We need to install our shelves. I think we're just going to drill holes and put in short segments of dowels. 
  • Also, we need to install the cupboard doors. 


  • Fix the shelf supports above the microwave. When we put up the shelf we didn't know exactly how long the microwave would be. We need to trim those two square  boards and close off the hole above the microwave...and paint it.

  • Replace the lower window on the door and paint the door. The lower window must've been broken at some point and was replaced with a sheet of plastic. I saved the glass from the old storm window and will cut it to fit this window. Well, I'll try. I'm really bad at cutting glass. 

  • Build two cutting boards


  • Tile the backsplash


  • Build a spice rack/little shelves. It'll be the height of this cupboard and 3 or 4 inches deep. I think. I have to make a plan still.

  • Install this light after we get a 2nd coat of paint on the ceiling. 
  • Replace our mis-matching light switches and flip the garage switch right side up.
  • Install the faucet and garbage disposal.
  • Fix the wiring for this light (it flickers when it's on. I think it's just a loose wire)
  • Build roll-out shelves for the back tall cuboard. It's going to be a free-standing cart on big castors that goes almost up to the ceiling.
  • Cut and install a window sill

  • Cut cork draw and shelf liners. 


Home depot only had cork in 200 square foot rolls.


  • Install the drop leaf supports and the drop leaf



  • Miscellaneous stuff without photos
    • Finish the waterlox applications on the counter tops
    • Put a 2nd coat of paint on the ceiling
    • Paint the back wall
    • Trim work (Sliding door, window, baseboards, molding) 
    • Screw down the flange around the rag chute
    • Clean up. Lots of clean up.

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